"The Desire to See the Invisible:
Discovering New Beauty from That Desire"

The primary purpose and role of cosmetics are to maintain a healthy skin and beautifully make it up. The Shiseido Global Innovation Center conducts daily research to realize people's ideals at a high level. Surprisingly, there are researchers there who are striving to gain new insights by focusing on the "invisible areas” of humans. Their research involves the technology to visualize the invisible and find better outcomes for people. We spoke with Kentaro Kajiya, the head of the Business Core Technology Center at Shiseido's MIRAI Technology Institute, who leads this research. What is the essence of human beauty that can be discovered through the exploration of the invisible?

Kentaro Kajiya, Vice President, Business Core Technology Center, MIRAI Technology Institute.

Kentaro joined Shiseido in 2001. He has been in this current position since 2022 after serving as a visiting researcher at the Cutaneous Biology Research Center (CBRC) established by Massachusetts General Hospital and Harvard Medical School and the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology. Kentaro has also been a visiting professor at Hirosaki University Graduate School of Medicine since 2023. He has received the Best Paper Award from the China Cosmetics Academic Research Conference (2006, 2020) and the Excellent Paper Award from the Japanese Society of Cosmetic Science (2010). He has given keynote speeches at IFSCC, making him a globally active researcher in dermatology.

The first thing that is invisible is "the inside of the skin." The skin, which is visible on the surface of humans, is supported by invisible elements such as blood flow and immunity. The second is "the mind." Cosmetics can get the heart excited and change the feelings of people when used. By researching and visualizing the action of the human mind, we have a history of discovering how cosmetics can be functional. Finally, there’s the “future,” time. By visualizing and predicting what is to come, people can imagine their own future, and Shiseido can propose what it can do for that. That is, proposing the benefits of "prevention."
I believe that our company's characteristic is to progress towards visualizing these three invisible aspects—what is unknown and that which is endlessly fascinating to humans.

Kajiya:　For example, providing high protective effects based on research into the impact of UV rays on the skin is certainly one way for cosmetics to exist. However, Shiseido has the idea that by looking at and better understanding the entirety of humans and drawing out inherent strengths, we can achieve better skin. It’s not a dualistic approach; we think in terms of wholeness. That’s why our cosmetic research includes the study of the mind, blood vessels, and immunity.
Most importantly, our research on immunity began over 30 years ago in collaboration with a top research institute in the field of dermatology. For instance, the now-common understanding that stress negatively affects skin condition was first elucidated by our research about 30 years ago. In a paper published in the global scientific journal NATURE, we reported through our research that immune cells connect with nerves, essentially claiming that the skin is connected to the mind. We were the first to do this.
Since then, we have continued our research on immunity, and in 2023, we learned new knowledge. Immunity, simply put, is about eliminating foreign substances that come from the outside, but we found that this immunity also recognizes things that are actually inside the body. The immune system can recognize and eliminate aging cells within the skin by itself, meaning it has a self-purifying function. We discovered that when this function fails, skin aging progresses. This finding was published in the scientific journal CELL.

Kajiya:　Theoretically, that would be the case. Aging and cellular aging are separate matters. This discovery will change the common understanding of aging care.

Kajiya:　Yes, in fact. Before we even get into that, as a researcher, I want to tell you that the inside of the skin is incredibly beautiful. My specialty is blood flow and lymphatic flow, and the beauty of the capillaries and the blood flowing through them is truly remarkable. When light is shone on the blood vessels within the skin to visualize them in three dimensions, you can see that the structure of the blood vessels is extraordinarily beautiful. It’s not something that someone calculated and created; it’s a beauty born from the incredible process of evolution of living organisms, and I feel both wonderment and beauty when I see this up close.

When this structure can no longer be maintained due to aging or UV damage, the skin also changes. Maintaining the beauty of this structural framework is synonymous with enhancing the appearance of the skin.

Kajiya:　This was a serendipitous encounter. Our research institute has many departments and numerous studies are constantly underway. We already knew that camellia-derived ingredients are good for the skin, but while selecting components that enhance the function of immune cells from countless options, we found that the extract obtained from fermented camellia seeds was effective. The camellia, which has been a symbol of Shiseido for over 100 years, is now merging with cutting-edge research on immunity that Shiseido is pursuing, resulting in innovative skincare. I feel a sense of destiny in this.

Kajiya:　This might be one of the aspects that sets Shiseido apart from other companies. We place great importance on the term "Art and Science." While "art" encompasses creativity and aesthetic awareness, I believe there is also art within science. The research itself is "beautiful." When we seek to discover something, we can depict a beautiful research story, which I believe is the style of Shiseido's research, as I have seen in the numerous studies conducted by my predecessors. The desire to see the invisible, to be curious about the unknown, is a fundamental human desire, and from that endeavor, you can discover new beauty. I think it resembles the expression of an artist.

Kajiya:　Exactly. The pathways activated when touched become active, making one feel as if they have been touched. For example, when you drink water that smells like orange, you perceive it as tasting like orange juice. This "illusion" is inherent in humans, and I believe we try to maintain ways that fully utilize our five senses, including illusions. Since we primarily make products that are applied to the skin, cosmetics that provide a sensation of touch when applied may be a possibility.

Kajiya:　The connection between emotions like happiness and joy, and how they enhance the quality of life and extend "healthy life expectancy" is currently receiving a lot of attention. I believe that the role of cosmetics and beauty in this context is significant. Shiseido has a method called "cosmetic therapy," as we recognize the substantial role that cosmetics play. I feel that we are a valuable company and industry that can achieve many results that address social issues.

The relationship between the body and skin is becoming clearer, and I want to provide evidence of how positive feelings in the mind can benefit the skin through the brain. We will propose solutions and technologies based on objective indicators. Perhaps it may not even be cosmetics. Changing one’s lifestyle could be the solution. There are various ways to approach this, and I think the very act of considering this is beautiful.

Kajiya:　In another project, we defined what we do as "proposing a lifestyle through which beauty can be felt." The power to remain excited about oneself. If one believes that there is still hidden strength within them, they will want to see it.

In the new space, we will analyze the connections between the skin, body, and mind to predict the future, and in addition to treatment and dietary advice, we will also provide content^*1 that offers AWE^*2 experiences through visuals. I hope this will serve as an opportunity for people to discover their potential, while we also get the chance to observe the skin of many people. We are also considering hooks that will make participating in research enjoyable.