Passion Meets Innovation: Yaël Tuil speaks about Shiseido’s vision for Le Sel d’Issey and the future of fragrances.

As fragrances take on an increasingly pivotal role within the cosmetics industry, especially in the post-pandemic period, we speak with Yaël Tuil, Vice President of Global Marketing Fragrances at Shiseido, about the brand’s evolving fragrance business. With over two decades of experience in the industry—including in leadership—Yaël brings a wealth of expertise to her current role.

Under her guidance, Shiseido’s fragrances, which has partnered with iconic brands such as ISSEY MIYAKE PARFUMS, are striking a balance between tradition, innovation and sustainability.

Looking ahead, Yaël anticipates further growth for Shiseido through deeper consumer engagement and bold product launches, all while upholding the company’s commitment to realize its mission “BEAUTY INNOVATIONS FOR A BETTER WORLD.”

Yaël:　I manage our fragrance portfolio, which includes Shiseido’s own scents that have a history of over 100 years, dating back to the launch of Hanatsubaki, a perfume created by the first president, Shinzo Fukuhara, in 1917. That's in addition to ISSEY MIYAKE PARFUMS, narciso rodriguez and Zadig & Voltaire, which are brands that we handle through licensing agreements. It’s crucial that we maintain the core values and creative essence of these brands while expressing their unique identities in the fragrances we develop.

Next, Yaël shares insights into the evolution of Shiseido’s fragrance business in the EMEA region, in particular Europe. She emphasizes the brand’s adaptability to changing consumer demands, focusing on innovation, sustainability, and digitalization. Looking ahead, Yaël envisions Shiseido balancing tradition with modernity, delivering sustainable products like Le Sel d’Issey that honor Japanese culture and nature.

Yaël:　In EMEA, we launched GINZA fragrance four years ago and we have started the Ginza fragrance rollout last autumn, and it’s been a huge success. It provided younger consumers, who may not be thinking about skincare yet—since wrinkles aren’t exactly their focus at this age—a more accessible entry point through the fragrance line.

This allowed them to either discover or connect with the brand in a new way. The approach has worked remarkably well because it not only broadened our consumer base but also created a path for new customers to engage more deeply with the brand.

In EMEA, this was a significant step. Right now, we’re rolling out Shiseido fragrances in APAC (New Zealand), and soon in Japan and Travel Retail (Japan and the Americas).

Yaël:　Yes, there are three key trends. First, innovation is crucial—we need to balance our iconic fragrances with new launches and complete our portfolio. The importance of innovation is critical to avoid being too dependent on the iconic franchises. Second, consumers now expect fragrances to offer more than just a pleasant scent; they seek emotional and skincare benefits. And, lastly, digitalization has become central to our approach, especially post-Covid, as we adapt to new ways of connecting with consumers through e-commerce and AI-driven insights.

Yaël:　ISSEY MIYAKE PARFUMS is considered a unique brand, not aimed at everyone. Consumers appreciate our distinctiveness and decision to avoid using celebrities in our campaigns, which aligns with Mr. Miyake's vision of beauty. This resonates with those who value authenticity over celebrity endorsements. Often, only the names of celebrities featured in advertisements are remembered, while the brand itself is forgotten. However, with Issey Miyake, our identity remains distinct and independent of such associations.

Yaël:　This is a beautiful yet demanding brand and the fact that we don’t use celebrities in our advertising campaigns, gives the brand a very distinct identity—it's seen as innovative, and sometimes even a bit cold or distant. But I believe that once you truly get to know the brand, you fall in love with it, and it becomes something you’ll follow forever. In the case of Le Sel, this “constraint” pushed us out of our boundaries and comfort zone and rather than having an advertising campaign with a celebrity, we came up with a very innovative and disruptive campaign using CGI.

When we celebrated the 30th anniversary of L’Eau d’Issey pour Femme, for example—the fragrance that first launched in 1992—it was incredibly touching to read testimonials like, ‘It was my first fragrance,’ or ‘It was my mother’s perfume.’

That emotional connection is what fragrances are all about—they evoke memories of joyful moments with loved ones, whether they’re still in your life or not. It’s those positive emotions that make fragrance so powerful.

Yaël:　It was an honor and a responsibility to bring Mr. Miyake’s vision of Le Sel d’Issey to life, especially after his passing. He envisioned this fragrance as a tribute to salt, a sacred element in Japanese culture. We collaborated with celebrated Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka on the bottle design, emphasizing purity and balance. We worked with Marcus Tomlinson for the advertising campaign and of course Quentin Bisch the perfumer for this unique scent. In addition, the fragrance is over 95% natural ingredients, vegan, and sustainably packaged, reflecting Mr. Miyake’s commitment to nature.

Yaël:　In Japan, salt holds sacred meaning—it’s part of rituals and is present at the entrances of temples. In Europe, salt represents life’s flavor and energy, something we add to enrich and enhance our experiences. This idea of salt as an essential, life-affirming element aligns beautifully with Mr. Miyake’s connection to nature. Just as L’Eau d’Issey was inspired by water, Le Sel d’Issey draws from the purity and significance of salt. It feels like the natural continuation of his journey, and we are committed to honoring his love for nature and sustainability in every aspect of the product.

Yaël:　Japanese brands are seen as refined and sophisticated, offering a unique perspective on beauty rituals. While French brands dominate the industry, Japanese beauty is recognized for its delicacy and perfection. This elegance lets Japanese brands stand out in a market.

My management philosophy is the “Triple H”: head, hands and heart. This means using your intellect to navigate the complexities of the business, staying hands-on and involved in the work, and showing empathy and understanding in all interactions with teams and designers. This approach has fundamentally changed how my team operates, and I’m proud of the progress we’ve made together.

Yaël:　Fragrances are deeply emotional, often tied to personal memories and stories. At Shiseido, we focus on storytelling to ensure that our fragrances resonate with the consumer on a meaningful level.

We avoid superficial marketing tactics and instead strive to create a connection that makes the consumer feel better, whether it’s through a nostalgic scent or a fragrance that boosts confidence.

We also prioritize the safety and sustainability of our fragrances. While there are concerns about alcohol in fragrances, we are exploring innovations like water-based products. However, this comes with trade-offs, such as reduced longevity and stickiness. We aim to balance these factors while maintaining the high quality and lasting power that our consumers expect.

In addition, Yaël shares her vision for Shiseido’s fragrance business, emphasizing her commitment to building a “Better World” through women’s empowerment, innovation, and sustainability. Inspired by the company’s values and her appreciation for Japanese management, Yaël’s leadership approach is shaped by the principles of omotenashi (hospitality) and Shiseido's TRUST 8 guidelines. She focuses on sustainable growth, deep consumer engagement, and fostering creativity to ensure Shiseido’s lasting legacy in the global fragrance industry while staying true to its cultural heritage.

Yaël:　I knew Shiseido’s excellence, but the experience of stepping out of my comfort zone and engaging with Japanese culture, particularly the concept of omotenashi (hospitality), has profoundly impacted me. I’ve learned to appreciate this deep cultural value that enhances creativity, accuracy and collaboration.

Yaël:　The passing of Mr. Miyake was tough, but working on creative processes with his team has been incredibly rewarding. It’s about becoming a brand keeper and contributing to the brand’s evolution and future.

We conclude our conversation by hearing Yaël’s outlook for Shiseido’s fragrance business, focusing on its strategy for sustainable growth and innovation. Yaël highlights plans for major brand launches, such as ISSEY MIYAKE PARFUMS and narciso rodriguez, and emphasizes the importance of maintaining focus on one major launch per year to stay aligned with Shiseido's core values. She also stresses the significance of engaging consumers through both digital and in-store experiences, aiming to build a lasting legacy that contributes positively to society and upholds the company’s mission of “BEAUTY INNOVATIONS FOR A BETTER WORLD.”

Yaël:　Our strategy is to stay focused and avoid spreading our resources too thin so we will dedicate to one major launch each year. In 2023, we launched all of me by narciso rodriguez. In 2024, we introduced Le Sel d’Issey. And in 2025, we have an exciting, innovative launch planned for Zadig & Voltaire—it’s going to be a blockbuster.

After that, we’ll continue with brands like Max Mara. The goal is to build a comprehensive portfolio of iconic brands that drive sustainable, profitable growth. At the same time, we ensure that we innovate around our classic fragrances to keep them relevant, while also delivering new and meaningful experiences for our consumers.

For the next five years, we’re focused on innovation that’s truly impactful, not just putting products on shelves for short-term gains. We aim to create a lasting fragrance house, building a legacy for future generations. It’s about ensuring that the brands continue to evolve with integrity, innovation, and sustainability at their core.

This also ties into how we engage with consumers, especially through digital platforms. It’s not just about social media but also how retailers present our products. Every touchpoint, from online to in-store, needs to reflect the company’s creativity and ensure that consumers have a memorable experience.

Equally important is the in-store experience. The way consumers are welcomed and introduced to the brand at the point of sale is crucial. We place a lot of importance on the execution at retail locations, making sure that every interaction is creative and immersive for our customers.

I dream that the innovations we introduce will not only enhance people’s personal lives but also create broader, positive change—whether through our commitment to sustainability or through Shiseido’s work in empowering and educating women. These efforts reflect how we’re not just focused on beauty for beauty’s sake; we’re paying attention to the world around us, to diversity, inclusion, and people’s emotions.

It’s important to me that Shiseido’s impact goes beyond the product—that we contribute meaningfully to society. We are all part of this world, and we have a responsibility to help shape it in a positive way.

Personally, I envision a world where my children can grow up happy and healthy. Professionally, my goal is to ensure that we maintain a conscious and sustainable approach to innovation, one that truly improves the world we live in.